Fish & Seafood

114 grams of fat. That's 30 more than the Grilled Salmon, from the same fish.

Blackening was popularised by the New Orleans chef Paul Prudhomme in the 1980s: the fillet is coated in butter and spice and seared in a very hot cast-iron pan until the crust chars.

Add a Creole sauce, mashed potatoes and buttered corn and the plate reaches 1,570 calories, the second-heaviest in the seafood section. The allergen list stops at milk and fish. No gluten.

The heaviest plate in the seafood section: 1,930 calories, 115 grams of fat and 3,580 mg of sodium, first on all three counts.

Fried fish and chips were being sold together in London by the 1860s, and Joseph Malin's shop in the East End is the name most histories give as the first. The formula hasn't moved much. Here the fish is hand-battered and fried crisp, with fries, coleslaw and tartar sauce.

A side order of fries on this menu is 1,060 calories by itself, so the fries are where I'd leave some behind. 79 grams of protein.

The SkinnyLicious Branzino is 530 calories. This one is 1,410.

Both are the same fish, the European sea bass that Greece and Turkey farm in huge numbers, but this plate is charbroiled with lemon and fresh herbs and served with mashed potatoes and green beans, and it picks up gluten and wheat on the allergen list along the way.

94 grams of fat, third-highest in the seafood section. 72 grams of protein. I'd order the SkinnyLicious version and add a side if I'm still hungry.

No gluten and no wheat are listed. Milk, egg and fish are the whole list. For a coeliac guest, it's a straightforward main.

It runs 1,270 calories with 84 grams of fat, which is more than people expect from grilled fish, and on this menu a side of mashed potatoes by itself is 450 calories.

Salmon is an oily fish, so a good share of that fat is the fillet itself. It's still the second-lightest plate in the seafood section, with 62 grams of protein and 1,640 mg of sodium.

The crust brings gluten. The Grilled Salmon has none.

Beurre blanc is butter whisked into a reduction of white wine and shallots until it emulsifies into a sauce, and it's rich by definition, so with the crust on top this plate reaches 93 grams of fat and 1,350 calories.

Asparagus and mashed potatoes come alongside. 64 grams of protein. Sodium is 1,620 mg, the second-lowest in the seafood section.

90 grams of protein with only 29 grams of fat. In the Fish & Seafood section, where it sits despite being chicken, nothing has more protein, and only the Jamaican Black Pepper Shrimp has less fat.

The catch is carbohydrate. 192 grams, from white rice, black beans, sweet plantains and marinated pineapple. The sauce is very spicy. The menu calls it black pepper sauce rather than jerk, whose backbone is allspice and Scotch bonnet chillies.

Fish is on the allergen list even though there's no fish on the plate, so ask if that matters.

Splitting the protein between chicken and shrimp costs you 18 grams against the chicken-only version, 72 against 90, for 50 fewer calories, and it ties the shrimp-only plate for the most carbohydrate in the seafood section, 195 grams.

White rice, black beans, plantains and marinated pineapple carry most of that. The sauce is very spicy. 17 grams of fiber.

Shellfish joins gluten, milk and fish on the allergen list. If you like both, it's a reasonable middle, but the chicken version is the better plate.

27 grams of fat. That's the lowest of any main course on the menu over 1,000 calories, which on a list full of cream sauces and breaded cutlets makes this a quiet outlier. Where the calories go instead is carbohydrate. 195 grams, from white rice, sweet plantains and black beans around the shrimp.

Scotch bonnet chillies bring the heat, and they're considerably hotter than a jalapeño, with a fruity edge the black pepper sauce is built around. Order it expecting spice.

Fish, shellfish, gluten and milk are listed. 1,290 calories, 67 grams of protein.

1,430 mg of sodium, which sounds like a lot until you compare it to the rest of this menu — it's less than half what the Louisiana Chicken Pasta does and about a fifth of the Buffalo Blasts.

Miso is fermented soybean paste, and fermenting is what gives the glaze that dark savoury depth without needing much sugar. It also means soy is in the allergen list alongside fish and milk. 1,340 calories, 64 grams of protein. On a menu where the healthy-sounding options frequently aren't, this one holds up to the numbers.

Order it if the rest of the table is having something enormous and you'd rather not.

84 grams of protein. Shrimp, chicken and andouille sausage all go in, so this is one of the more protein-dense seafood plates on the menu at 1,450 calories.

Traditional gumbo is built on a dark roux of flour and fat cooked until it's the colour of chocolate, and it doesn't use cream. This one adds cream to a spicy Cajun broth, which makes it richer and softer than a New Orleans version would be. Different, not wrong. Fish and shellfish are both listed. 82 grams of fat, 2,280 mg of sodium.

Scampi properly means langoustine, not shrimp, and not garlic butter — the sauce got the name in American kitchens because that's how the langoustines were cooked. Nobody's going to correct you. But it explains why this dish is garlic, white wine, lemon and butter rather than anything more elaborate. 1,260 calories with 41 grams of protein, which is modest for seafood at that size. Angel hair underneath soaks up the sauce fast, so eat it before it stiffens.

Both fish and shellfish are listed. If you're avoiding one of the two, this dish rules out both.